Wednesday, 29 September 2010

Sowing the seeds of change - goodbye September!

September has been a memorable month for me - I spent two fantastic weeks in Cuba (that's me above, on the way back from birdwatching in Vinales) - which surpassed all my expectations. I visited the botanical gardens in  Cienfuegos - where I found the most beautiful plant with the worst scent I've ever encountered (below) - and Havana; spent several days in Cornwall, where I discovered a whole new sub-tropical garden world even though I was there to commemorate my late father; enjoyed sunny days in Sussex although there's a serious autumn chill in the air; saw the finishing touches being added to the Deesha Hospital in India in preparation for opening (I leave for India in just over a week, so do follow me from there!); found many wonderful new blogs (more on that later) ... and suddenly autumn is upon us!
Cornwall opened many new doors for me (below) as I discovered the remarkable world of sub-tropical gardens (I haven't had time to review them all yet, but will do so in the next few weeks. I went to Trengwainton and Trewidden - both creations of the Bolitho family; visited Godolphin, which is undergoing a huge transformation under the stewardship of the National Trust; went to a sculpture garden that promises to be one of the best gardens in the UK; and enjoyed two wonderful Devon  gardens - Docton Mill and Marwood Hill on the way home - both real surprises.
And as for fabulous new blogs I've found this month .. there's Rhone Street Garden, a wonderful mix of pictures and words that will have you begging for more; A Digital Botanic Garden, which I can't stop dropping in on; and Garden Delights, which has more stunning photographs, although I have to say that I'm mentioning this blogger here because they have even more energy than me!! And that's saying something!
And as the sun begins to set on September, I'm getting ready to leave for India ... yes, again ... but this time to open the hospital in Rajasthan! Construction is complete and we have a grand opening on October 21st, so do please, please follow our progress in the next few weeks. You've all been wonderfully supportive in the last two years with all your comments and encouragement, particularly those of you who follow us on Facebook.
And in conclusion, I want to say a really special thank you to Sussex Prairies (above) - one of my favourite gardens anywhere and close neighbours of mine - who will be open this weekend and who donated part of their proceeds from a previous open weekend to The Raven Foundation - thank you Paul and Pauline for helping us "Sow the Seeds of Change"! That's what we're about to do! 

Sunday, 26 September 2010

Marvellous Marwood Hill - don't miss it!

Marwood Hill - wonderful vistas, a myriad of colour and first signs of what you'll see there this autumn (above) as the leaves begin to turn. This is a another Devon garden you shouldn't miss. Home to the national astilbe collection (which I was too late to see), 22 champion trees and a wisteria pergola that I have to see next spring, this is a magical garden with unforgettable colours and views at this time of year.
When Dr Jimmy Smart arrived here in 1949, there wasn't a garden and he knew nothing about gardening! There was just a neglected hillside which he took in hand. But for the anaesthetist, this wonderful 20-acre plot became a passion and he famously described gardening as:

"a disease, at times infectious, and certainly, as far as I am 
concerned, quite incurable"

and it took him some 20 years to sow the seeds for the stunning site that is Marwood today. In 1972, Malcolm Pharoah arrived from Wisley to help and when Smart retired a year later, they worked together to turn Marwood into the glorious garden that it is today - a little piece of paradise in North Devon.
The joy of Marwood is that you approach the garden at the top of the hill and wander through the upper garden, where there are double borders, which house another National collection - Tulbaghias - native to South Africa, but which thrive here in the well-drained soil and sunshine. There is also a scree garden and wall terracing, before you emerge and see the lakes in the valley (above).
The three small lakes are fed by a stream and are filled with fish and wildfowl, and are the perfect haven for the Bog Garden and the wonderful Japanese irises (Iris ensenata) that flower here in the spring. There are also a host of architectural plants, hostas and ornamental grasses adjacent to the three lakes, which make them a watery wonder with the vivid colours and bold shapes reflected in the water. But the sheltered position of Marwood Hill and the sloping valleys make it a haven for the trees, which are undoubtedly the finest feature of this garden, particularly now, as the colours begin to turn.
Marwood Hill is open from March to the end of October daily, so you still have time to get there to see the wonderful colours. It is easily combined with a visit to Docton Mill, if you want to see two very different gardens in a day. And of course, if you're in the area, you've also got RHS Rosemoor nearby - another stunning garden and flagship of the RHS in the west.

Saturday, 25 September 2010

Heaven in Devon - Docton Mill

Imagine a little bit of heaven in Devon! My visit to Docton Mill today was just that. This is a simply glorious garden just a stone's throw from the North Devon coast near Barnstaple, and as you approach the Mill you have wonderful views of Lundy Island and the Bristol Channel. I've read about this garden many times, but I've never been in the area before, so on my return from Cornwall today, I went out of my way to visit. 
The mill at Docton dates back to Saxon times and although there was a garden there in the 20th century - tended by Iris and Norman Pugh, commemorated at the entrance by current owners - it is John and Lana Borrett - the current custodians of this heavenly spot who have breathed new life into the gardens in the last ten years. They arrived here in 1999 and although they had no prior knowledge of gardens and gardening at all, they have made the Mill what it is today - an absolute paradise!
Docton Mill is set in a valley with the River Speke flowing through it. The natural course of the river runs along the western course of the garden and over the mill wheel attached to the house and then flows through the valley to the sea less than a mile away. Water is a major feature of this nine-acre garden, which enjoys a unique microclimate and allows plant and animal life to flourish. The Pugh's rescued the mill and garden from dereliction when they arrived here in 1980, but the Borretts have breathed new life into it and made it what it is today.
When you arrive, you walk along the edge of the mill leat (above), which is fringed with lovely trees, before approaching the house and tea terrace (top pictures), which are a riot of colour even on a grey day like today. I cannot imagine how wonderful Docton looks in the spring when it is filled with daffodils, or when the camelias and magnolias come into bloom. But even in September, it's heavenly and you can wander round the Woodland, Waterfall, Summer and Bog Garden areas, taking in all the plants and trees and staring in amazement at the incredible greenery.
I know how the roses smelled in September, and that's enough to etch Docton Mill on my brain until the spring! This is certainly a great place to stop for lunch - Lana's home cooking is a real joy and we enjoyed wonderful fresh food here. My husband had the best Cornish pasty (and this isn't even Cornwall) and I had delicious home-made soup. But you can also have an award-winning cream tea here.
Docton Mill is located on the Hartland Peninsula - designated an area of outstanding natural beauty. It's near enough to Bideford to take the passenger ferry to Lundy Island for a day trip if you're so inclined. I'll be reviewing all the glorious Cornish gardens I visited in the next few weeks, but this garden took my breath away, so I've sneaked it in today.  

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

From Cuba to Penzance ... cannas everywhere!

From Cuba to Penzance ... all in a week! I'm here in Cornwall on family business, staying in the glorious Abbey Hotel - started by famous 60s super model, Jean Shrimpton - which overlooks Marazion and St Michael's Mount, and although the weather's not as good as Havana, the gardens here are amazing ... with many tropical plants similar to those we saw in Cuba. The Abbey Hotel has its own tiny charming garden (below) which still has many plants in bloom, although I'm told that it's at its peak in spring, when the tulips are out.
Penzance is lucky in that it enjoys a sub-tropical climate and one of the striking features of the town is the huge number of palms you see everywhere ... and cannas. Wander round the town with a camera and you will be amazed by the gardens, particularly the brightly-coloured houses in Regent Square (below), where you will see many unusual plants in bloom.
Penzance enjoys an unusual climate, located as it is near the Gulf Stream, and is an ideal place to stay to visit the great gardens locally, including Trengwainton, Trewidden and St Michael's Mount. I'm hoping to get to all three tomorrow, weather permitting, but the forecast isn't looking too good right now, so fingers crossed! 
Right in the heart of the town, between the High Street and the seafront, are the wonderful Morrab Gardens (below) - magical gardens laid out in the early1900s where exotic species including palms, trees ferns and cannas thrive in sheltered conditions. 
The layout has not changed since the gardens were first created more than 100 years ago and there's a wonderful Victorian bandstand, war memorial and fountain ponds - all maintained by the local council and a team of volunteers. The density of planting (below) is quite striking and the gardens look stunning rain or shine (it was definitely drizzling when I visited!).
More tomorrow when I know what the weather's like .... but for other Cornish gardens, check out my UK Garden Visits section.

Tuesday, 21 September 2010

Cuba's first Biosphere - living in a glorious garden!

After Vinales, we went to Las Terrazas, still in Pinar del Rio province, but in the hills. This is another beautiful region, but it wasn't always like this! Back in the 1960's the whole area had been ruined by forest fires and shortsighted agricultural techniques. But in the early 70's a reservoir was created in Las Terrazas and thousands of trees were planted to prevent further erosion. The project was so successful that in 1985 this area was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, known as Sierra del Rosario. Today it's a fine example of nature preserved and you would never know that it had been anything other than verdant forest.
At the heart of the hillside community is a hotel - La Moka (above) - where we spent several nights. It's perched among the canopy of trees overlooking the reservoir and valley below and is one of the finest hotels we stayed in during our two-week trip to Cuba. We loved it here and I include it in my blog because the whole area is one great big garden - everywhere you look there are green vistas, tropical plants and many birds. 
Walk out early in the morning and you will see the locals at work (above); birdwatchers can go with a local guide and see many different species (local guides claim that there are more than 80) and there are many hummingbirds here, although I failed dismally when I tried to photograph them so I remain in awe of all those clever garden bloggers who catch them on camera!
Las Terrazas is the one place in Cuba you can take an ariel canopy tour and although I didn't do it, my teenagers did and loved it! We just sat at the cafe on the reservoir (above) while they sailed past us high in the sky. They said it gave fantastic views of the village and was one of the highlights of their trip!
I was happy to spend my time here walking and looking at all the tropical plants and trees we don't have back at home. Las Terrazas was formerly at the heart of Cuba's coffee growing industry back in the C19th and you can visit the ruins of a coffee plantation built by French refugees from Haiti at nearby Cafetal Buenavista - just one of more than 50 similar estates that flourished here in the 1800s. There are also natural swimming pools near the hotel at Banos del San Juan on the river; and horse riding is also popular here.
The water lilies were just coming into bloom as we were at La Moka, and although they were quite sparse when we visited, I'm told the display is awesome later in the season. This is definitely a place to take time out and enjoy Cuba at its verdant best! More soon from Havana ...

Saturday, 18 September 2010

Vinales - Cuba's Garden of Eden

Our second week in Cuba took us to the west of the island - to Pinar del Rio province, and the town of Vinales, nestling in a gorgeous green valley that was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. This is an agricultural area, rich in coffee, fruit and vegetables, and of course, tobacco, which is used to make fine cigars. This is a truly magical place, filled with trees, flowers and agricultural land as far as you can see. 
The town of Vinales (top) was colonized and developed by tobacco planters from the Canary Islands in the early 19th century. It was previously inhabited by runaway Taino slaves, and their story is told when you visit the caves just outside the town. But the landscape is very distinctive because of the strange shaped mogotes or hills (above) that surround it, which can be seen from everywhere in the valley. 
Vinales is also home to a magical miniature garden - right in the centre of the town, opposite the gas station, which I visited while staying there. Rather grandly named the Casa de Caridad Botanical Garden, it is indeed, filled to bursting with thousands of plants and trees, all clustered round the house of its founder, Caridad (pictured above, with me standing alongside looking hot!). 
This little bit of paradise, filled to overflowing with an eclectic mix of fruit trees, medicinal plants, bromeliads, succulents and gorgeous tropical flowers, is a wonderful showcase for all the plants that grow in Cuba.  And although it doesn't cover the same acreage as the Botanical Garden in Cienfuegos, you will find many fascinating species here, as well as palm trees and orchids.
You walk through the garden gates are are met by the most astounding display of lush foliage and colour (above), and every inch of land adjacent to the house is filled to bursting with plants. It's a wonderful sight and as you look closer, you see just how many different plant species there are here. Further away from the house there are swathes of fruit trees - bananas, peaches, oranges and pineapples.
At the end of your tour, you get offered fresh fruit from the garden, which you can sit and eat on the terrace outside the house (above) in a typical Vinales rocking chair. There's no entry fee here and contributions are voluntary, but this is a delightful garden well worth visiting and making a contribution to the owners at the end of your tour. Today the garden is still run by the family, who continue to care for Caridad's garden. Definitely one to put on your list when you get to Cuba!

Thursday, 16 September 2010

Cuba Gardens ... Cienfuegos

It's been well over a week since I last posted because it's difficult finding a good internet connection in Cuba! But it's a wonderful country and now I'm home in the UK, I shall be catching up on all the wonderful gardens and greenery I saw on my recent trip. After four wonderful days in Havana, where I soaked up the sights of the city and made time to visit the Botanical Garden, we left for the countryside and headed east towards the coast and the stunning countryside around Santa Clara and then on to the south coast, where we stopped at Cienfuegos, which has its own remarkable Botanical Garden (above).
Cuba's hot right now, just like Florida, with temperatures well into the 90's, so the best time of day to be out and about is early in the morning, to catch the morning mists (above) and enjoy the wonderful landscapes. The Botanical Garden at Cienfuegos was right at the top of my list of places to visit because of its long-term connection with Harvard University throughout the first half of 20th century, and its formidable collection of trees and tropical plants.
There are well over 200 species of palm here, and the garden covers some 75 hectares. It became a center for tropical plant research back in the early 1900's, and had strong links with Harvard University during the first half of the 20th century, as a result of a meeting between Edwin Atkins - an American sugar planter in Cuba - and Harvard professors, Oakes Ames and George Goodale. These three men established the Atkins Institution in Cienfuegos to carry out research on sugar and other commercial crops, and by 1920 the garden became officially affiliated to Harvard, following a large endowment from Edwin Atkins.
By the mid 1930's the garden had become internationally recognised as an important research centre, and regularly received visitors from overseas who were interested in tropical botany. But links with the US were severed after the Revolution in Cuba, although the garden remains open today, primarily as an arboretum with its many magnificent specimen trees, and continues to draw visitors from all over the world. It also has a fine collection of cacti and succulents indoors.
I've never seen the Carrion flower (above) before, or indeed smelled anything quite like it! Also known as stapelia gigantea it is reminiscent of unwashed socks, and is mostly found in India and Africa, but also grows in the glasshouses at Cienfuegos ... quite an eye opener. Today, the garden is run by the Cuban government and is a really fine showcase for what grows in the tropics - but remember to put on your mosquito repellent if you visit, because I got eaten alive!

Monday, 6 September 2010

Stunning Cuba!

Cuba is stunning!  Arrived here last week ... it's hot, very hot ... but fascinating! Wonderful cars like the one above; incredible trees and plants; vibrant music; good food and lovely people. We saw this amazing car near the Botanical Garden in Havana and I thought the colour was appropriate for a brief blog entry today, as I put up just a few pictures of the Japanese garden.
Havana is an incredibly vibrant city - everywhere you go there are musicians playing in restaurants and bars. The Botanical Garden is a half-hour drive from the city centre and covers several hundred acres, divided into geographical regions and with many fine specimen trees, including more than 200 different types of palm.  
The Japanese Garden (above) is the only structured garden area, with its lakes and water features, but it's all worth making a special trip to see. As the internet connection here is a little slow, I wanted to give readers a taster, and I'll write more when I have the opportunity. I'm now heading east to see another great garden near Cienfuegos, so more later ....