Thursday, 18 September 2014

La Bambouseraie - an extraordinary plant collection that's survived the test of time

The story of La Bambouseraie  - the oldest cultivated bamboo garden in Europe – located in southern France is fascinating. This plant haven houses in excess of 200 bamboo species, plus some 800 plants and trees, including champion specimens – quercus and magnolia and an astounding collection of oak trees - hidden in a valley near Anduze in the southern region. For plant and garden lovers, this is comparable to a day out at a major theme park for a child!
This extraordinary garden was created by Eugene Mazel over a 40-year period in the 19th century. He was born locally in 1828, but was orphaned as a young child and entrusted into his uncle’s care. As a teenager, he became fascinated by plants and, when he later inherited his uncle’s huge fortune, added to by his own earnings as a successful spice merchant, he created La Bambouseraie at Prafrance, where work began in 1855. As his collection of bamboo and other rare species grew, he became one of the most respected botanists in Southern France.
Sadly his life was to end in tragedy and in 1890 he became bankrupt and was forced to leave his lifetime’s work behind. He later died in Marseilles in abject poverty. But in 1902, another passionate plant lover purchased the estate – Gaston Negre – who, with the help of one of Mazel’s former gardeners, started restoring the recently-neglected property at Prafrance. In 1953 Negre opened the estate to the public for the first time and by 1958 visitor numbers had exceeded 20,000 annually. 
But tragedy was to strike again when the local river – the Gardon – flooded and caused considerable damage to the estate and the plants growing there. Two years later, Maurice Negre who had taken over the running of La Bambouseraie from his father, was killed in a car crash.Yet the family endured all these disasters and today the garden is run by Muriel Negre, daughter of Maurice. It is a major tourist attraction and people visit from all over the world. Diversity is certainly the key to its success because it offers a very different experience to the classical chateau gardens so often associated with France.
At the heart of the garden there's a Laotian village (above), constructed by a committed staff member who worked on the estate, which faithfully replicates the layout of a Laos village, complete with endemic planting. In South-East Asia, bamboo is a major feature of both the economy and the construction of local homes, and any visitor to La Bambouseraie could be forgiven for thinking they were far from home when walking through this bamboo village.
One of the more surprising features of this garden is the Dragon Valley (above), created for the new Millennium – a charming landscape at the heart of La Bambouseraie which comes into its own in autumn when the acers change colour.  Conceived to mark the year of the dragon in Chinese cosmogony, this garden is filled with Japanese maples, a pavilion, and the red entrance archways associated with gardens in the Far East. 
Most visitors will agree that the majesty of this garden is easy to see. It has a remarkable collection of plants; offers extraordinary visual appeal; and affords some amazing photographic opportunities. Remember to look up when you are here because the intermittent light shining through the dense bamboo forest plays wonderful tricks.This is a veritable plant theme park that has survived several tragedies and today carries the coveted French “Jardins Remarquables” label.
La Bambouseraie is open from 1 March to 15 November. Check the website here for details and prices. Certainly one for the wishlist!

Monday, 4 August 2014

Windcliff - Dan Hinkley's wondrous waterview garden in Washington

View of Mount Rainier and Seattle skyline from Windcliff
With a view like this, who could consider living anywhere else? This is what you see when you visit Dan Hinkley's magical garden overlooking Mount Rainier in Washington. On a clear day, the volcano appears to be suspended in the sky and when you first see it, you wonder whether it's an optical illusion. Combine this with the astounding blue sea of the Puget Sound on a summer's day and you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd gone to heaven.
The house at Windcliff, designed by Hinkley's architect partner, Robert Jones
Hinkley is well known in horticultural circles as an intrepid plant hunter, public speaker, author and creator of one of America's greatest woodland gardens just a few miles away in Washington state - Heronswood - which I was also lucky enough to visit on my recent trip to the US. But Windcliff could not possibly be more different. This is a personal odyssey for Dan and his architect partner and they have spent the last seven years creating a house that fits unobtrusively into the surrounding landscape and a garden that takes full advantage of its unique setting.
Windcliff sits on an exposed hilltop overlooking the Puget Sound
It would be hard to imagine a landscape so different to Heronswood, where shade-loving plants thrive under a forest canopy. Windcliff sits on a hilltop and is exposed to the elements and Hinkley has spent time considering what plants will compliment both climate and location. The result is a magical combination of trees, shrubs and grasses interspersed with drifts of perennials that flower throughout the summer months. The evergreen element here is vital to the winter landscape, when the sun can remain behind clouds for months on end.  
Eastern prayer flags add to the intensely sensory experience at Windcliff,  providing colour and sound
As you enter the five-acre garden, you will be struck by the huge number of unusual shrubs, but it is the area overlooking the sea and Mount Rainier beyond that unfolds in front of the house that will imprint itself in your memory. It unfolds like an Impressionist painting,with bold brush strokes of colour, drawing you into its midst and on to the seascape beyond. In high summer, there are great swathes of agapanthus and gladioli, adding bright colour to the grassy palette.
A strategically-placed firepit at Windcliff, designed by mosaic artist Jeff Bale
The house, designed by Dan Hinkley's long-standing partner - architect, Robert Jones - blends into this landscape perfectly and is designed to give the best views of the garden and ocean beyond. There are terraces facing Mount Rainier and I can't think of anywhere better to enjoy the view in the company of this fascinating couple, who have spent the last eight years creating Windcliff as a private sanctuary. 
Hinkley still spends time at Heronswood, in his capacity as director and advisor to the Port Gamble S'Klallam Tribe who acquired the property in 2012, but Windcliff is so different that it's hard to believe both gardens were created by the same man. This is a garden for sun-loving plants, whereas Heronswood is famous for its shady palette. But if you're lucky enough to see both properties, you'll realise that Dan is a talented plantsman, who not only travels the world in search of plants but who also knows what to plant and where.
Windcliff is occasionally open to the public, as is Heronswood and details can be found on Dan Hinkley's website. For me, this visit was the zenith of a wonderful trip to the Pacific Northwest earlier this summer and this garden, in particular, will always stick in my memory as one of my favourites. It is a combination of skilful planting and incredible views that I shall never forget.

Saturday, 26 July 2014

Heronswood - one of America's top woodland gardens - sailing back into the limelight with Dan Hinkley at the helm

Heronswood Nursery, founded in 1987 by Dan Hinkley and Robert Jones
Gardeners and plant lovers the world over will have heard of both Dan Hinkley and Heronswood Garden. Hinkley enjoys rock-star status in the gardening world and is recognised as one of the greatest American plantsmen and explorers, whilst his former nursery, Heronswood, located on the Kitsap Peninsula in the Pacific Northwest, once drew gardeners from all over the world in search of rare and unusual plants. But since the turn of the century it has been at the heart of a drama that would make good prime-time soap viewing.  
The potager at Heronswood with its instantly recognisable sculpted hornbeam arches
Hinkley founded Heronswood in 1987 with partner, Robert Jones and it was their boundless enthusiasm and his determination to travel the world in search of rare and interesting plants that soon made the nursery a veritable horticultural mecca for plant enthusiasts. He travelled frequently to India, China, Nepal, Japan and Vietnam in search of plants that would grow in the United States. And, once home, he applied his considerable skills to propagating and promoting unusual plants for connoisseurs. His plant lists are still spoken about in revered tones - no pictures, no English names and definitely not for the feint-hearted - part of the charm of these catalogues was Dan's ability to describe the circumstances in which plants had been found.

Dan Hinkley
Heronswood is a woodland garden, located in paradise, so it came as something of a surprise to American horticultural circles that Pennsylvania-based seed giant W. Atlee Burpee came stalking and then acquired the property in 2000, having sweet-talked Hinkley and Jones to stay on to manage their baby. I have read many of the newspaper cuttings relating to this period and it is not a pretty story - it seems that Burpee was no stranger to acquisitions that looked like promising cash cows - but this one was different. This garden was a labour of love, created by a man with a mission, where plants were nurtured, catalogued and treated with respect. Plants flourished under Dan's care, but spread sheet supremos had little understanding of what this garden was about and in 2006, to the horror of horticulturalists all over the world, Heronswood closed its doors to the outside world. 

In the wilderness years Heronswood declined and although the demise of this great garden provided good copy for newspaper editors, the reality was that it became overgrown and under-loved until it was finally sold at auction to local Native Americans - The Port Gamble S'Klallam Tribe - in the summer of 2012. The Tribe is firmly committed to restoring the garden and work is already well underway, with a team of volunteers working under the stewardship of Dan Hinkley, who sits on the steering committee comprised of tribal leaders, plant experts and committed garden supporters.
Two years later, Heronswood is beginning to appear back on the map and has opened its doors to groups of visitors throughout the season and for its famous plant sales. Hearts had fluttered anxiously during the years the garden was closed as loyal supporters feared that this prime tract of land would be sold off as a golf course, or as a prime plot for more condos. But the Port Gamble S'Klallam tribe that purchased this 15-acre site some 25 miles northwest of Seattle is firmly committed to restoring Heronswood. 
I was lucky enough to visit Heronswood during a recent visit to the Pacific Northwest and was also introduced to Dan Hinkley. He is a charming man, who cannot resist stopping to weed along the way and he's happy to tell you that even though the garden is still a long way from where it was when it was first sold, real progress is being made in its restoration and revival. Much of it is woodland, but visitors will gasp when they realise how many rare and unusual plants there are, hiding in the undergrowth.
Water feature at Heronswood by Lewis and Little
You need to keep your eyes open to make sure that you don't miss anything here. There are plants at every level and many underfoot, so you must watch where you walk. Mingled in with the tantalising array of plants are several water features created by local artists David Lewis and George Little (above and left) and when you emerge from the dense woodland, you find yourself in what appears to be a private garden, surrounding a house. It is here you'll find the much-photographed potager, with its sculpted hornbeam arches (above) and mixed borders. Visitors will be well aware that this is a work in progress again even though the garden was once considered to be one of the greatest in America. 
If you are lucky enough to live in the area and want to visit Heronswood, check the website to see when open days and plant sales are. In my next post, I will take readers on a tour of Dan Hinkley and Robert Jones' own garden, Windcliff.

Wednesday, 9 July 2014

Wordless Wednesday - Sleepless in Seattle







Sleepless in Seattle because there are just too many wonderful gardens to see here ... Heronswood, the Elisabeth Miller Botanical Garden and Windcliff, the magical private garden created by Dan Hinkley. All to be reviewed later.

Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Tacit Tuesday - Visit to the Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island

View of Mount Rainier from the Bainbridge Island ferry
The house at the heart of the Bloedel Reserve, Bainbridge Island, WA

Views across the Puget Sound from the Bloedel Reserve

Japanese guest house at the Bloedel Reserve, WA

Nature can live without man, but man cannot live without nature.
Prentice Bloedel

Monday, 30 June 2014

The Laskett - like it or not, it's definitely one to visit now Sir Roy Strong has opened his doors to the public

The Laskett was created by Sir Roy Strong and his wife, Julia Trevelyan Oman
Garden visiting is a growing trend the world over and here in England we have more than our fair share of gardens to visit. But there are some properties that should go on every person’s “Wish List” and for me The Laskett in Herefordshire is one of these. It is not only the largest private formal garden to be created in England since the end of the World War II – no mean feat when you consider that this four-acre plot was nothing more than a windswept field in 1973, but it is also the remarkable story of a long and enduring marriage between two of the most colourful figures on the UK arts scene during the latter half of the 20th century.
Sir Roy Strong has completely recreated the garden at The Laskett
Sir Roy Strong, eminent historian and former director of both the National Portrait Gallery and the Victoria & Albert Museum and his late wife, Julia Trevelyan Oman, the celebrated theatre-set designer, created The Laskett. But it is so much more than a garden; it is also a portrait of their marriage and celebrates many of the landmarks of their distinguished and varied careers within the Arts. The couple moved here from London and created this garden together. And since Julia died in 2003, Sir Roy has had the courage to open the garden to the public on a regular basis and make some radical changes. 
The Silver Jubilee Garden, with triumphal arch at the far end
The Laskett has been both praised and criticised and was, for a time, at the heart of an offensive by another local garden writer and maker, Anne Wareham, who opens her own Veddw to the public. But it would be a sad world if people did not say what they think. Garden visiting is entirely subjective and what pleases one eye is unlikely to appeal to another. There are many similarities between The Laskett and Veddw - both were created from nothing, on small budgets; both rely heavily on hedging to give them structure; both are unique and highly theatrical; and the cast of characters involved in each one are both strong and interesting.
A statue of Britannia adds a focal point to one of the many vistas at The Laskett
I like both gardens and have no hesitation in recommending The Laskett to those who are interested in unusual gardens. For me, it is reminiscent of two other truly remarkable gardens – Little Sparta in Scotland and Plas Brondanw in Wales – both in terms of its originality and allegorical importance. This garden is a portrait of the 32-year partnership between Sir Roy and his wife Julia and celebrates many of the landmarks of their distinguished careers in the Arts. It is both eccentric and interesting and you will find something different at every corner you turn. 
This is not a garden for the feint-hearted. It is largely green, very theatrical and to truly comprehend you need to plug into the exciting new audio system that’s been installed here. Then the story behind it will unfold and you will see The Laskett with new eyes. Sir Roy Strong has had the courage to open his eyes afresh and in the last five years, has embarked on an ambitious renovation and revival of the garden that has involved a lot of chopping back, digging out and starting again in areas that had become dark and difficult to manage. 
He is the first to admit there is still a long way to go, but he is also honest about his limitations and says he has never been a plantsman - it was Julia who knew what to plant and how to go about it. The changes began in 2005, when Sir Roy realised he needed to move on and adapt to his new life alone. He gives a candid account of this in his new book, which is lavishly illustrated with Clive Boursnell’s images of both the garden as work progressed and the cast of characters involved.
Today, he works closely with his two gardeners, and has written a remarkable account of recreating The Laskett in his new book: "Remaking a Garden: The Laskett Transformed". As part of his determination to recreate both himself and his garden, Sir Roy has taken the brave step of opening his garden to the public on a regular basis. Groups of 20 or more are now welcome to visit during the week. To arrange this, go to The Laskett website and fill in the details.
I savoured my recent visit and was delighted to have the chance to meet with a smiling Sir Roy, who has recreated his own life as well as his garden. He is enjoying sharing The Laskett with visitors and says: “I can truthfully write that even if the garden were razed to the ground tomorrow, nothing can detract from the happiness it has given me and those who work with me. It is an added delight that we have been able to provide pleasure to so many”.

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